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| Matthew`s Creative Cuisine |
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4400 Heatherdowns Boulevard
Toledo, Ohio 43614
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ph: 419.382.2559
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I live in Manhattan, where I review restaurants for a living (in part), but I'm from Toledo. I returned to attend my 30th high school reunion and see my folks, and they took me to Matthew's the night I arrived. This is not only the best meal I've had in any restaurant in nearly five decades of Toledo's gustatory history, Matthew's is competitive in many ways with the best restaurants in New York. Fighting words, but it's perfectly true. The place has an ironic panache, especially given its (very) peculiar location. Its anonymity is part of its virtue--and draw. The space has a flung-about feeling, but it's about to change substantially. Our worldly wise waitress, Cindy, has real presence, especially given the fact that she was seriously jet-lagged. Patés are assertively flavorful. Salmon and truffle mousse is creamy, but nice and firm (for a change). Gherkins ameliorate matters. Roasted corn cream soup is ridiculously delicious. Bread is shockingly fresh--the first really fresh bread I've ever been served in a restaurant in Toledo. Attention is paid even to the capers. Lamb rack (4 frenched chops) is given a vigorous Moroccan marinade with coconut milk. Roasted veggies and fragrant cous cous accompany with a certain jazzy style. I recall during the years I grew up here that nearly all the restaurants catered to a staunch, blue-collar palate, and that much better food could be found at private clubs (golf and such). Today that's no longer true at all. Matthew's is quite literally well worth a detour. (A HREF='http://dinesite.com/view/pg-17/?t=342959')(FONT COLOR='RED')(edited)(/FONT)(/A)
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